Les Rhabilleurs, airing Live from Geneva.
“Ready, Steady, Go ! This week, the Team is airing Live from the SIHH watch faire in Geneva. Everyday we will share with you some of our favourite releases, pieces we truly love, pieces that take us by surprise or simply pieces you cannot afford not knowing to get an understanding of the industry of “Time and Emotions.”
We were planning to present you a bunch of novelties by Parmigiani Fleurier this week, new references we heard about before actually stepping into their dedicated booth at Geneva’s Palexpo. What we saw there, took us up by surprise, and truly shook up our minds. A new reference that made us forget everything about the other novelties we wanted to talk to you about. Lets just say that for now, all we have in mind is the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire.
The Tonda Chronor Anniversaire
During the summer of 2014, we had the chance to visit Parmigiani’s manufacture, in Fleurier. A manufacture very dear to us, an admiration born a few years ago out of respect for the commitment, and traditional expertise they put in each of their pieces. The Tonda Chronor brings our liking for their timepieces to a brand new level. This watch celebrates the 20th anniversary of the manufacture. This new movement as an integrated chronograph, paying tribute to fine watchmaking tradition.
Experience is everything
This is the first integrated chronograph made by Parmigiani Fleurier. This complication, extremely tricky to realize, remains a rare thing to come across and requires an especially high level of knowledge and experience. This watch is the living proof that even though the manufacture is still young, it truly is playing with the big dogs. But this movement doesn’t only have an integrated chronograph ! It also integrates a split-seconds function and a large date.
The split-seconds complication : we fell for it
You want another reason why we fell for this watch ? Easy, it also is a split-seconds chronograph. Embedded to the PF 361 movement of the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, this complication brings an extra dash of functionality and technicality to an already very elegant chronograph.
Lets have a little reminder of how a split-seconds chronograph works : it makes possible to measure intermediate times, a set of events starting together but not ending at the same time. The split second stops to measure the first event while the chronograph second hand keeps running. Once the first event is timed, the split second hand catches the chronograph second hand and is again ready to time the next event. Very smooth, useful, technical and beautiful to watch.
A well thought design :
Let’s just say that the design of the case and dial is as smart and well thought as the movement is beautifully crafted. The reference we fell for : the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire with the 18-carat pink gold case and “Bleu Roi” dial. Only 25 pieces of this watch have been made.
First of all, lets talk about the dial. A very clean dial, despite all the complications. Simple and readable. Tinted in a new shade of blue named “Bleu Roi” (king blue), which slightly turns purple depending on the light and viewing angle. This dial really completes nicely the 18-carat pink gold case. Another interesting first for the brand : the large double date at 12 o’clock. A little touch of A. Lange & Söhne, some would say ? Correct, and it suits it so well… The other counters are also really well designed, to improve readability : the 30 minute totalizer is located at 3 o’clock, the 12 hour totalizer is at 9 o’clock and the small second appears at 6 o’clock. Note that none of those counters are surrounded by any ring. A nice touch that keeps the dial clean and highly readable. Obviously, we love it !
What else can I say ? This piece is a blend of technical beauty, perfect finishing and readability. Now, when the highest horological knowhow meets a thoughtful and clean design, this is what we call watchmaking…
Technical characteristics :
- Caliber : hand-winding PF361 calibre ; 18-carat pink gold
- Power reserve : 65 hours
- Case : 18-carats pink gold or 18-carat white gold ; 3-part round case
- Diameter : 42,10 mm x 14,6 mm
- Front and back : sapphire glass
- Dial : blue Grand Feu enamel coating or white Grand Feu enamel coating
- Hands : delta-shaped with luminescent coating
- Strap : Black alligator or etruscan alligator
- Buckle : pin buckle
- Water resistance : 30 meters
- Each model is available in only 25 pieces.