Let’s be frank, even if Rolex hasn’t succeeded in dazzling us this year with its Yachtmaster (even far from it), it has once again proved the quality of its substantive work. With its brand new calibre 3255, it is, in fact, redefining the quality standards inherent in the production of so-called “industrial” movements.
But that’s not all. It also proves that it still is and always will be capable of subtly bringing a breath of fresh air to its iconic “tool watches” by revamping them from the dial to the strap.
So here are the four major announcements with the Rolex signature presented at Baselworld 2015. Another one may be in the pipeline for later on in the year, as was the case with Deepsea Sea-Dweller D-Blue last August! And why not?
Rolex – Calibre 3255
Let’s start by getting to the heart of the new Rolex models with a new generation mechanical movement in the guise of calibre 3255, which sets a new standard of performance for Rolex in terms of precision, autonomy, impact resistance and magnetism, ease of adjustment and reliability.
Armed with its 14 patents, the precision criteria surrounding calibre 3255 are twice as demanding as those of the SOCC (Swiss Official Chronometer Control).
This accuracy par excellence is tested by Rolex at the post-casing stage using high tech equipment and exclusive methodology that simulates a real wearer.
The autonomy lasts for 3 days (approximately 70 hours), which is an increase of 24 hours (+50%) compared to the previous generation, which means that you can enjoy the weekend without rewinding.
The movement is insensitive to magnetic disturbances beyond those encountered in everyday life. Impact resistance and reliability have been optimised in terms of the structure of the movement and quality of the individual components as well as in the use of high-performance lubricants developed and synthesised in-house.
Last, but not least, the watch is easier to use and adjust, be it due to the faster, efficient automatic rewinding mechanism, clear position of the winding stem, the option to make calendar changes at any time without any restriction or very accurate hand setting.
Rolex – Day-Date 40
This year, ROLEX proudly presents the new generation of its Oyster Perpetual Day-Date model with its modern design in a 40 mm case and the afore-mentioned calibre 3255.
From an aesthetic perspective, the new Day-Date summarises the historical development of this highly charismatic model: refined horns and middle case, a large dial aperture, an exclusive return to the President strap – created specifically for the Day-Date in 1956 – still more closely integrated with the Oyster case.
The new Day-Date is available in 950 platinum and in yellow gold, grey or Everose 18 ct, with a wide selection of new, elaborately structured dials, which also herald brand renewal.
This “Presidents’ watch” therefore boasts new dials, the fine details of which are fashioned using a laser and applied to conventional sun finishes for an especially successful outcome.
New flexible, facetted, Roman appliques, every element of which is adjusted separately by hand, strengthen the masculinity of this charismatic model. An expression of the unique expertise of Rolex in the art of dials, these new “faces” of the watch are specific to the new Day-Date.
Finally, the return of the president strap, designed specifically for the Day-Date ever since its launch in 1956, is a nice surprise.
It now has ceramic inserts inside the links thus increasing its fluidity and durability. The new invisible fixing of the strap to the case is incorporated beneath the bezel for perfect visual continuity of the strand.
An invisible clasp, from the latest generation of Crown claps, which opens with a jointed Rolex crown, perfects the aesthetically pleasing appearance and flawless functioning of this magnificent strap.
Rolex – Oyster Perpetual
At Baselworld 2015, ROLEX introduced new versions of the Oyster Perpetual, fitted with new exclusive dials measuring 26, 31 or 34 mm, and a brand new size of 39 mm.
These newcomers complement the models unveiled in 2014 (31 and 36 mm) to form a group of products with a wide range of dial sizes and colours.
Depending on its calibre, 3132 (version 39 mm), 3130 (versions 36 and 34 mm) or 2231 (versions 31 and 26 mm), the Oyster Perpetual is fitted with three mechanical movements and automatic rewinding developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex.
Each movement is SOCC certified. In the 3132 and 3130 models, the oscillator, which is the very heart of a watch, comprises Parachrome blue spiral, patented and produced by Rolex using an exclusive niobium and zirconium alloy.
Insensitive to magnetic disturbances, this spiral is extremely stable against temperature variations and remains up to ten times more accurate than a traditional spiral in the case of impact.
These new Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches come with an Oyster strap with solid links made from 904L steel, thereby guaranteeing a high level of security and comfort for the wearer. This strap is fitted with a deployant clasp, the Oysterclasp, designed by Rolex.
Rolex – Yacht-Master
The highlight of these latest Rolex newcomers at Baselworld 2015 – the brand with the crown proudly presents its new Yacht-Master.
A new variation in black and everose 18 ct gold, fitted exclusively with the Oysterflex strap, developed and patented by Rolex. This technical strap uniquely combines the robustness and reliability of a metallic strap with the flexibility, comfort and aesthetically pleasing appearance of an elastomer strap. In fact, the heart of the watch has a super-elastic metallic blade over-moulded with high-performance black elastomer.
The new Yacht-Master is available in two sizes, 40 mm and a new diameter of 37 mm.
Its Oyster case in Everose 18 ct gold comprises a rotating bezel fitted with a new, black ceramic Cerachrom disk with raised polished numbers against a matte background. This contrast highlights the difference in materials, ranging from the polished Everose 18 ct gold case and the matte black Oysterflex strap, dial and Cerachrom disk.
The link between the case and the Oysterlock safety clasp is guaranteed on each link by a metallic blade alloy of titanium and nickel, providing considerable flexibility.
This blade is over-moulded by a high-performance black elastomer, which is particularly resistant to environmental aggression. It has considerable durability and is perfectly inert for the wearer. For added comfort, the Oysterflex strap is fitted on its inner surfaces by a patented system of lateral “cushions”, which stabilise the watch on the wrist.
This strap is fitted with an Oysterlock safety clasp in Everose 18 ct gold to prevent accidental opening.
Bezel and dial:
The new black ceramic Cerachrom disk of the rotating bezel perpetuates the identity of the Yacht-Master model with its graduated figures and raised graduations.
The black matching dial – a novel feature for this model – offers a direct contrast with the large hands and Chromalight marker filled in with a durable blue luminescent material. This display provides exceptional readability in daylight as well as in the dark.
The new Yacht-Master is equipped with calibre 3135 in the 40 mm version and calibre 2236 in the 37 mm version – two mechanical movements with an automatic winding system, developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex.
Like all Perpetual movements, 3135 and 2236 are SOCC-certified.